Friday, 20 February 2015
For those of you who are thinking about building a wooden surfboard but don't know where to start or don't have the tools or workshop space, Stuart Bywater is offering instructor led wooden surfboard building classes at his workshop in Brisbane. Stuart is an artisan furniture maker and wooden surfboard builder with many years of experience in the woodworking trade.
Having a skilled and experienced wooden surf board builder guide you through your first build is a big help and it can save you hours of frustration, and costly mistakes.
Details of class times are available on Stuart's web site.
Sturat Bywater Wooden Surfboard Classes
Sunday, 11 January 2015
Namaste readers. My mate Wally has been spending time during his holidays working on his latest woody, a nine-one longboard. Wally is an industrial design teacher and spends his days showing his students how to build wooden surfboards (what a job!) but he had been neglecting his own wooden board project until recently. So here are a few snaps and some words about his latest passion. Take it away Wally.
It's been more than 12 months since I got the templates for a 6'2" Fish and a 9'1" Mal. Finally I have something to show for it. I worked with my son Peter on and off over the last 3 days. He is a pretty sharp guy and I appreciated his input. We learnt so much and have ideas to improve the next one.
The holes in the centre stringer and ribs were too large (straight from AKU and HBTM). While making the board lighter, the frame is much weaker so I will probably use circles next time and cut the drainage grooves on the laser or CNC Router. Pete will give the board a good workout to test it out and see how strong it is.
We glued the bottom skin on before the deck making it difficult to make and line up the drainage channels.
After watching Zac and Toby struggle with putting the rails on their boards I was determined to come up with a better clamping method that was quick and foolproof for the students, minimising gaps. It worked really well. Next time I will use an additional 5 clamps to ensure no gaps. We put 3 rail strips on both sides of the board in the first clamping and 2 on each side in the second.
I chose not to do any steam bending to speed things up, hence the decorative nose and tail.
I have got to say its a real buzz to see the top skins and rails go on.
We didn't glass the inside of the board because we missed this step when we glued on the first skin.
I will pay more attention to positioning and supporting the drainage system and the pressure release areas on my next board.
Pete has taken the board home to finish off will have final pics soon.
The comment repeated continually by Pete during the whole process "this is awesome".
Well Wally and I can't wait to see the photos of the finished product. There's nothing like a wooden board project to bring a father and son together. Keep up the great work.
The rocker table and clamping system.Gluing on the bottom skin.
Applying some thickened epoxy for the top skin.
Gluing down the top skin.
A close up of the rocker table clamping system.
The rails ready for gluing.
The rail clamping system. The rails for both sides are glued at the same time to save time.
A close up of the rail clamping system.
Clamping on the rails using sash clamps.
Ready for the nose block.
Nose blocks getting glued on.
More to come...
Tuesday, 18 November 2014
For those of you looking for Australian plantation grown paulownia timber for your next wooden surfboard or marine project, Stuart Bywater of Bywater Designed is now supplying quality grade paulownia.
Stuart has a range of precut board sizes and can supply custom sizes to suit your needs. No order is too big or too small with delivery to anywhere in Australia.
A range of rough sawn and dressed Paulownia boards are available.
Paulownia Lengths of 2.4 or 3 meters
200 * 8 rough sawn
200 * 6 dressed 2 faces
190 * 6 Dressed 2 faces
Panels made to order
570 * 5, 4 or 3mm
600 * 5, 4 or 3 mm
For pricing go to http://bywaterdesigned.com/paulownia-timber-sales/
Call 0414 283 818
For more information contact Stuart at firstname.lastname@example.org
Namaste Hot Doggers and welcome to my latest wooden surfboard project, an eight foot woody for my mate Mike. Mike was keen to add a wooden board to his quiver and approached me to see if I could design and build one for him. Many years ago, back in the seventies, when a Brazilian was someone who played soccer and armpit hair, Chiko Rolls and Sandman panel vans were all the rage, Mike was a young grommet living on the Gold Coast. He was given a board as a birthday present by his then boss who worked next door to a local shaper. The board was called a "Hotdogger" and shaped by Ken Adler of San Juan Surfboards fame. It was essentially an egg shaped board and it went like the clappers but unfortunately Mike surfed it to death and it is no more. It was a fairly unique board for its time and Mike used to cop a bit of flack over it from his mates. It was affectionately referred to as Mum's Ironing Board (MIB).
Being a sentimental type of chap Mike was keen to relive the glory days of his surfing past so we set about designing and building a replica board based on his beloved Hotdogger. In his youth, Mike was a 6'5" streak of duck shit but since then he's put on a few kilos so we beefed up the volume of the board to make it a touch more floaty than the original.
Here's some photos for your viewing pleasure.
The outline and rocker is based on mathematical ellipses. I used a graphing application to plot the shapes and then imported them into AKU Shaper as image boards.
Gluing on the inside rail bands. I used a custom made Luthier's iron to heat and bend the paulownia strips.
My custom made Luthier's iron.
The inside rail bands trimmed up and ready for the top and bottom skins.
The top and bottom skins. Sanded, taped and ready for gluing to the blank.
The polyurethane glue is applied to the blank with a squeegee.
The skins are taped in place.
...and the board is slipped into the vacuum bag.
2 - 3 hours later after the glue has dried and all trimmed up.
The tail is trimmed ready for the tail block.
The nose is trimmed for the nose block.
Some spiritual artwork.
The right side rail bands are glued on, three at a time.
After 2 - 3 hours the board is removed from the rail jig.
All trimmed up and ready for the opposite side.
The left hand side rails being glued on.
Trimming the rails with a palm plane and spoke shave.
Gluing on the tail block.
...and the nose block.
Ready to have the rails shaped.
The rails are shaped and sanded and the board is ready for its first coat of epoxy resin.
The nose block.
The tail block.
Taping up the bottom before applying the epoxy to the deck.
Weapons of choice.
Applying the epoxy.
Using a squeegee to spread out the epoxy. No need to be too precise as the roller will help get an even application of resin over the board.
A brush over with a foam brush removes any bubbles.
Now to the bottom of the board.
Cutting the fin slot with a custom made jig and trimmer.
Drilling the leash plug hole.
The leash plug hole ready for the plug.
Gluing in the centre fin box with thickened (pigmented) epoxy resin. The ice block sticks (hot glued to the fin box) help to align the box perpendicular to the bottom of the board.
Gluing in the leash plug.
A final coast of resin all over and a wet rub with P240, P360 and P600 grit wet and dry sand paper.
I pyro pen the board's dimensions along the stringer.
Some sound advice.